Resources
Garment manufacturing glossary
The terms you will meet when you manufacture clothing, in plain English. Useful before your first call with any factory, including ours.
- AQL
- Acceptable quality limit: a statistical sampling standard that buyers and factories use to decide how many garments to inspect and how many defects are acceptable.
- CMT
- Cut, make and trim: the factory cuts, sews and finishes garments using fabric and trims that the buyer supplies or pays for separately.
- Fit sample
- A sample made to check how the garment fits on a body or form, often revised several times.
- Fleece
- A knit fabric with a looped back that is often brushed for softness and warmth. Used for sweatshirts and hoodies.
- FOB
- Free on board: a shipping term (Incoterm) under which the seller covers costs until the goods are loaded onto the vessel at the port of origin. After that, cost and risk pass to the buyer.
- Full package
- The manufacturer handles fabric, trims, production and packing, and quotes one price per garment, as opposed to CMT.
- GSM
- Grams per square metre: the weight of a fabric. Higher GSM usually means a thicker, more substantial fabric. A light T-shirt might be around 150 GSM and a heavy hoodie 350 GSM or more.
- Inline inspection
- Quality checks made during production on the sewing line, so problems are caught early rather than at the end.
- Lab dip
- A small swatch dyed to match a colour reference, made before bulk dyeing so the buyer can approve the shade.
- Marker
- The planned layout of pattern pieces on fabric before cutting, arranged to use as little fabric as possible.
- MOQ
- Minimum order quantity: the smallest number of pieces a factory will produce per style or colour. It usually depends on fabric, dyeing and construction.
- Piqué
- A textured knit with a fine raised pattern, used for polo shirts because it breathes and holds its shape.
- PP sample
- Pre-production sample: made with bulk fabric and trims to confirm everything before production starts.
- Proto sample
- The first sample of a design, used to check the idea, pattern and fit. It may not use final fabric or trims.
- Rib
- A stretchy knit with vertical ridges, used for necklines, cuffs and hems. Described by its pattern, such as 1×1 or 2×2.
- Shrinkage
- How much a fabric shrinks after washing. It is controlled through finishing and tested before production.
- Single jersey
- A light, smooth knit fabric with a flat face and a looped back. The standard fabric for T-shirts.
- Strike-off
- A sample of a print on the actual fabric, made for approval before bulk printing.
- Tech pack
- The technical document that describes a garment for manufacturing: flat sketches, measurements, materials, trims, construction, colours, labels and packing. The more complete it is, the more accurate the sample and the quote.
- Twill
- A woven fabric with a diagonal rib, such as denim or chino. Strong, durable and good at hiding creases.